RE: Ford + Holiday Rambler = Heater Core??
I would remove it, find the capacity, then take it down to NAPA or similar to find a generic replacement. Shouldn't be all that hard to find since most motor home manufacturers try to use off-the-shelf parts to keep down costs.
JMO
Good luck.
RE: What milage can 400hp cat get on 40' mh
Wow, when I read these things about mileage, I'm kind of happy that my little 190HP Cummins pushes my 37&1/2' rig around at a solid 10.2MPG over the last 44,000 miles. Course I only weigh in at 23,000 lbs. with no slides, but it's comfortable.
RE: Refrigerator ON or OFF when parked at home
There is no doubt in my mind that keeping the refer on 24/7 will extend the life of the refer. Even my RV repair guy said to keep it running on its warmest setting even when not in use. He repairs/replaces refers all the time. Most, he says, because they were sitting idle.
But, at what cost? My electricity is expensive. My bill jumped at least $25 a month when the rig was plugged in all summer. That is $350 a year. $1,750 in five years. That will just about pay for a new one!
We run ours all summer 24/7 and then probably 10 days a month during the winter. But, if I had cheap electricity, I would absolutely run it 24/7.
Good Luck.
The bad thing is salt air where you are, so the way to handle your case might be to shut if off on the driest day you can. Right there next to the coast it's going to be a challenge but not impossible. Especially if some Santa Anna winds blow into the area.
We are talking about the tubing and flue and other assemblies on the back side of the refer, that have the shortened life. (I don't think drying the inside of the refer is going to help extend the life much, other then preventing mold and such.)
RE: I Got a Leak...HELP!!
Don't know how much it might cost but know you can DIY with a leaf blower (electric is best), a roll of tape, a friend to help, and some bubbly water.
Good luck.
RE: Brake caliper tempature monitor idea
It would seem that you could just place a nice simple IR detecting LED close to the area, calibrate it to a hand held both in positioning and temperature, and then design a display circuit as simple as a comparator (or 4 comparators) that would sound an alarm.
Here's a nice IR detector, don't know the range though...part of the design process to find out. I'd think you'd need an industrial part too.
IR detector...
RE: Keep MH plugged into ac at home when not using?
The refer is on all the time to extend life.
The current drawn isn't very significant so a standard extension cord is fine.
Good luck.
How can you extend life, refer on 24/7.
Please explain
Thank you
What I meant is that the typical RV refer, usually an absorption refer tends to have a longer life then when it's left 'on' all the time instead of being turned off for storage or when parked for a couple weeks while visiting someone then back on when traveling.
RE: water smell
The correct concentration should not harm the pipes.
To sanitize, add chlorine (bleach), at the following rates:
1 Teaspoon / 1 gallon of water
1 oz. / 60 gallons
This is enough to 'super chlorinate' your water, which means it's many times the amount of chlorination needed, so your tank and tubing will have a chlorine taste, then you do the following. Using more chlorine then needed will give your plumbing a chlorine taste that will last and last and last...
To sweeten:
1 & 1/2 cup vinegar / 60 gallons
1/2 cup baking soda / 60 gallons
RE: dual pane window seal broken
And you can also do the repair yourself if you have a few basic tools. Go to my web site and scroll down a little to get to the right section.
Dual paned window clearing...
It's easy and it works. Didn't cost anything since I had the supplies, tools and equipment with me.
RE: Refrigerator ON or OFF when parked at home
There is no right or wrong about what to do, and that's because there are other factors that affect the process and change the life of an absorption refer.
Let's say you live in the desert. If you turn off your refer for six months per year, you'll probably get 16 years of life too. But if you live near a coast, or inland with lots of rain, or in a foggy area, or an area with lots of morning dew, you could get 7 years of life.
The reasoning is that turning off the refer allows moisture to accumulate on the outside of the tubing. If it isn't burned off quickly, by warm dry air, then many tiny rust points can develop. Over time, usually years, these rust points grow, eventually causing a leak and a bad refer.
On the other hand, if the refer is left running all the time, the tubing stays warm, which drives off moisture and helps prevent rust from forming to begin with. Giving extra life. If you choose to let it run, the current draw on electric or propane used is low, so the cost is low, and you always have a cold refer to begin a trip with.
After reading what I could find and speaking with RV refrigeration tech types, the conclusion seems to be leaving the refer on full time gives the longest life.
RE: Keep MH plugged into ac at home when not using?
I keep my '94 plugged in when not being used so the converter is charging the house batteries, then I have another float charger that keeps the starting battery charged up. The refer is on all the time to extend life.
The current drawn isn't very significant so a standard extension cord is fine.
Good luck.
RE: TV converter box
Feb '09.
The dtv system is in place in many areas. It isn't like they are waiting until the last minute to start flipping the switches. Many channels broadcasted in analog are broadcasted in digital at the same time.
You are somewhat right about that, in my area there are 9 broadcast channels, but only 4 are broadcasting a digital subchannel. Which is the only type of signal the boxes will receive, and there is no analog pass through feature in the brand that I bought (I didn't think to check for that). Our local ABC Channel 2, is broadcast in analog on 2, and digital on 2.1.
CBS here is not broadcasting in digital at all yet and no news from them when they might change...but they have to in Feb. '09, so I have to disconnect cables to switch back to analog.
So I guess what I'm saying is that many TV stations are waiting for the last minute (five stations here) and that in my RV, it's to much of a hassle to switch back and forth between analog and digital, so I leave it on analog for now.
RE: TV converter box
And your remote will control the one up front but you'll not have a remote in back without a remote extender.
But you can get two $40 coupons.
B-t-w, I got my coupons and they expired in 60 days so I ran out and got the best deal I could find...most retailers didn't have ANY. So I paid $8.45 each for two and then just a couple days ago I found them for $33. If I'd gotten my coupons later the boxes (same brand, same model) would have been free. Durn it.
Jim,
What brand were the $33 boxes and where did you see them for that price? I still have my cards but they are running out on time.
Thanks
I was kinda po'ed that I found them at Walmart just yesterday and they are the exact same brand as what I bought at Sam's Club a month earlier for $48. Magnavox.
And the kicker is that this is Alaska! Usually, things here are 25% higher then in the 48.
My apologies folks, I went into our WalMart today, and the $33 (actually $33.99) boxes were actually DVD players. The local WM had confused the two products because they are in virtually the same box. Same color, manufacturer, etc. So when I saw them they had been mis-marked at $33. That didn't last long.
Today, they are properly marked and they are selling them at $55. So go to Sam's Club or Costco for the best price. I've been using mine now for a few weeks and that digital picture is really great. But it needs a pretty strong signal, if there is snow in an analog picture, the digital box doesn't display the channel at all (Magnavox).
Anyway, sorry for the confusion.
RE: Roof replacement or recoat
I'm glad Jon jumped in here, I couldn't remember where to find his story. I've seen another blog where the guy had extensive water damage and redid, or rather rebuilt, his roof. Very complete story but I don't remember his name either. A search should turn it up for you. Pretty sure his job was under $2,000. He replaced all the rafters, seals, etc.
RE: Can you break your lug nuts loose
The torque for a 19.5" wheel on a Ford F53 chassis varies from 140 to perhaps 180 ft-lbs. Depends on the actual size of the stud and the threads per inch used for the given model year. While 450 ft-lbs may be correct for 22.5 wheels, it is way, way high for 19.5" wheels.
You've got something else going on (like LH threads).
My Freightliner/Oshkosh chassis has 19.5" wheels and the spec'ed torque is 475 ft-lbs. And many shops have no idea, which is why 3 of my lugs came loose after hitting a transition from blacktop to cement at 60MPH. Les Schwab got it wrong and only tightened them to 150 ft-lbs. The truck driver that came out to help didn't know and didn't even have a torque wrench, the tire shop I took it to after I learned what the torque was suppose to be didn't know.
Amazing.
RE: Filling propane
Nearly every town in the US has a propane distributor. You usually find them on the outskirts. A quick check with a RV park, RV dealer, friend with an RV or the phone book would be your first step.
Most towns have a 'Suburban Propane' company, to give you a name. Here in our town of 36,000, there are 3 propane dealers.
Welcome to the forum...
Opps, misread the question. Ignore this post!
RE: Battery for engine dead a lot
It, jumping the positive terminal of the chassis to house batteries, is not really a good solution because you have no idea how much current is being drawn by the parasitic loads, and the solar panel may not be able to keep all those loads satisfied.
Better to simply disconnect the ground/negative cables at the batteries and leave it at that. You can buy a simple switch to do that for you for $10 each.
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I thought I read this right.
We have a 05 Georgie Boy Luxura that we bought brand new last year. We noticed that the light stayed on on the dash radio all the time, but thought it was normal. (((We leave the coach plugged in a lot to keep the rest charged up)))
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If the parasite loads are pulling more than the converter/inverter can produce I think you need more than a battery disconnect switch.
Correcting the problem with a disconnect switch has 2 problems. ! It does not disconnect the wire to the tranny and the engine ecm's they pull about 750Ma each. If you forget and start the engine with the chassis battery disconnected, you can rush down to the parts house and by yourself a new alternator
Although I don't have a new RV, I'm wondering how the tranny and EMC would stay connected and draw current if the GROUND CABLES are disconnected at the batteries as I suggest. You cannot 'forget' and start the engine because the batteries are disconnected. Nothing would happen until the ground cables are reconnected. In my RV, I'd take 5 minutes to disconnect two ground cables, then No parasitic loads would draw any current. And if the OP is plugged into shore power, then the simple charger for $20 is still a reasonable solution, with no need to disconnect the grounds.
Disconnecting the batteries, as others have suggested, is an easy solution while in storage.
Boonbocking has other solutions. One of which is the Trik-L-Start, another would be a 2nd solar panel (not my favorite).
RE: Battery for engine dead a lot
It, jumping the positive terminal of the chassis to house batteries, is not really a good solution because you have no idea how much current is being drawn by the parasitic loads, and the solar panel may not be able to keep all those loads satisfied.
Better to simply disconnect the ground/negative cables at the batteries and leave it at that. You can buy a simple switch to do that for you for $10 each.
RE: Battery for engine dead a lot
My favorite way to keep the chassis (starting) battery topped off is with a simple 'float' battery charger for $15 - $20 at most large retailers. Since I spend most of my time plugged in, it's the perfect solution. Even being rated at just 1.5 Amp (5 Amp peak) it's fine. My rig has a 120V outlet in the basement compartment right next to the batteries so wiring up the charger was easy.
You can also get a 'battery disconnect' as mentioned for $10 if you're going to be parked without AC power for more then a couple days.
Although you have a battery disconnect switch in the rig, probably right next to the door, some things stay on even with that shut off. Like the radio memory circuit. Sometimes the LP detector is wired directly to the chassis battery (and the house battery).
RE: Answers to questions
Another agreement with Sully2, darnit, why didn't you leave? I would've been out of there the next day...got wheels and all.
B-t-w, there is no reason you can't tell us their name so we'll all know.
